Riding Giants

The overarching fact about these surfers is the degree of their obsession. They live to ride, and grow depressed when there are no waves. They haunt the edge of the sea like the mariners Melville describes on the first pages of Moby Dick.

...charts the development of big wave surfing, from the discovery of breaks off Hawaii to the modern phenomenon of jet-ski-assisted surfing.

...a vault's worth of stock footage, still photographs, and interviews with punchy editing and snazzy music...

Riding Giants traces a general and enthuastic history of surfing, with special attention to differences among generations, locations, and larger than life personalities.

...captures the thunder and buzz of big-wave surfing.